Japan is famed for its various natural and manmade hotsprings, with many towns and even cities having at least one neighbourhood bath available to wash the day’s worries away.
But, far south in the volcanic island of Kyushu, there is a town that’s sure to whet (or wet) any onsen-lover’s appetite – Beppu.
Renowned in the time of the samurai as a place of healing, this coastal town is blanketed by steam from its many diverse onsen offerings.
Beppu’s big claim to fame is the Seven Hells, a collection of natural hot springs, mud springs and a geyser that attract millions of locals and tourists. Here is a quick guide to Beppu’s Seven Hells if you want to know more. Unfortunately, the Seven Hells aren’t open to bathers due to their scalding heat.
But worry not! Beppu has plenty of human-safe hot springs for you to cook yourself in! So much so that there are EIGHT, collectively known as the Beppu Hattou (The Eight Beppu Baths). Rather than any particular onsen though, these eight refer to resort areas of Beppu famed for their hot springs (and sand baths!).
Hamawaki
Located at southeastern Beppu near Oita City, Hamawaki is considered the birthplace of Beppu’s onsen industry, with many classical inns and a shrine still standing here. Of course, there’s a few onsen here too!
Hamawaki Onsen
Named after the hot spring waters that used to flow from the beach (hama) at Beppu Bay, Hamawaki Onsen is considered the oldest of the Beppu Hattou. Unlike most onsen it’s open from early morning till late (1am), making it popular with local night owls and night shift workers.
Hamawaki Onsen offers both hot water and lukewarm baths. Its interiors have a retro 1980s feel to them with faded but well-maintained tiles complementing simple and functional baths. Taking a bath here is a great way to experience how the regular Beppu folk bathe.
Beppu
Central Beppu has some of the oldest and most storied onsen in town. Many started appearing during the Edo and Meiji periods alongside the newly developed port and rail connections.
Takegawara
Built in 1879, Takegawara Onsen once featured a bamboo-tiled roof (hence “Takegawara) before it was rebuilt in 1938 with its current distinctive karahafu gable roof – turning it into one of the most famous of the Beppu Hattou and an classic icon of Beppu itself.
Similar to its exterior, Takegawara’s bath sticks to the old-school ways with a single large horseshoe-shaped bath filled with super-hot 42 degree Celcius water (there’s cold water available, but remember to ask other bathers before turning on the tap!). Adding to this vintage feel is the well-worn interior of cracked, darkened tiles, which are illuminated by sunlight streaming in from high windows. And once you’re done, you even get to chill out inside a cozy, classy and high-ceilinged lobby.
But, if hot water simply isn’t enough, then try sand!
Takegawara’s signature hot sand bath has you put on a yukata and feel the heat as you’re buried up to your neck in black, toasty sand heated by hot springs. Said to be a practice that apparently helps with stiffness, nerve pain and cold sensitivity, it’s also a great selfie moment too (staff here will happily take one for you).
Kamegawa
The Kamegawa area is located at the northern end of Beppu towards the sea. Sand baths and sea salt onsen are the main bathing attractions here.
Hamada Onsen
After a hot spring was first discovered here in 1897, the Hamada Onsen was built over it in 1935 and then refurbished in 2002 with concrete baths.
This onsen is known for its ease of accessibility for seniors and the handicapped, featuring wide passageways, handrails and gentle steps and inclines.
There’s also the small onsen museum on the site of the former onsen too just across the road.
Beppu Beach Sand Bath
What’s better than a sand bath? A sand bath on the beach!
Beppu Beach Sand Bath is a public-operated sand bath facility where you’ll get to be buried (sans-head) with hot sand that’s been heated by sea spring water. Better yet, there’s even parasols and a roof to let you chill come rain or shine.
Featuring the sweeping views and serene sounds of Beppu Bay, this is a must-try if you’re a sand bath or outdoors lover.
Oh, and don’t worry about getting dirty, there’s also an onsen here to let you wash it all off and relax even more!
Shibaseki
Shibaseki is the furthest onsen area inland in northern Beppu, located in its western hills.
Shibaseki Onsen
Although somewhat remote compared to the other onsen in this list, Shibaseki Onsen more than makes up for it with its diverse facilities and unbeatable surroundings.
Due to its location out in the northern flank of Mount Tsurumi, bathers at Shibaseki Onsen enjoy a secluded atmosphere surrounded by rolling hills filled with trees and greenery. No wonder then that multiple ancient Japanese emperors were once said to have treated their illnesses here in its waters!
With its variety of facilities such as indoor baths, outdoor baths, steam baths and even family baths, any emperor would be jealous of the modern-day bather here.
Kannawa
Kannawa is the densest (and admittedly most touristy) onsen hotspot in Beppu, with dozens of onsen ranging from tiny community onsens to comfy onsen inns or ryokans. Beppu’s famous Seven Hells are also located in this area.
Kannawa Mushiyu
Kannawa Mushiyu or “Kannawa Steam Bath” is a rustic onsen which specializes in steam baths.
Founded by Buddhist monk Ippen Shonin way back in 1276, this modest onsen boasts a stone, steam-heated room covered in herbs known as sekisho or Japanese sweet flag, which is known for its fragrance. Here, you can sweat it out while breathing in the sweet notes of this local herb.
Kankaiji
Kankaiji lies to the southwestern hills of Beppu, close to one of the sides of Mount Tsurumi.
Ryotei Matsubaya
Looking for an upmarket onsen and hotel? Then book a night at the Matsubaya!
This 3-star ryokan offers a bird’s eye view of Beppu city and its bay while housing you in modern yet tasteful accommodation. As for the onsen, they offer both indoor baths and outdoor baths with scenic views over the city – both have to be reserved however.
Horita
One of the furthest eastern areas of Beppu, it’s a small town with a few hidden onsen gems.
Mugen no Sato
Literally called “Dream Village”, Mugen no Sato offers a secluded onsen paradise with multiple onsen pools, each with their own gorgeous views and mesmerizing layouts.
Its sheer size makes it less a spa and more a village, making it the perfect day trip getaway for those looking for an alternative to the bustling and touristy Kannawa.
While you’re here, definitely make sure to check out the outdoor Takinoyu onsen and its twin waterfalls cascading down right next to your bath!
Myoban
A center of the alum mineral and bath salts trade, Myoban is home to quite a few sulphur springs and even mud baths.
Myoban Yunosato
Great baths, fascinating local traditions and good food – only in Myoban Yunosato!
On the bathing side, you have large and visually stunning turquiose blue pools. What’s more intriguing, however, is that they are filled with sulfuric waters, which are said to have a cleansing and exfoliating effect against skin diseases.
But this area’s most famous attraction is its Yunonaha-goya huts. In these thatched-roof huts, underground sulphur gas is pumped through pebbles and blue clay, creating aluminum and iron sulphate minerals on the surface that are then harvested to produce the region’s famed Yunohana bath salts!
Of course, once you’re done bathing and learning, it’s time for jigokumushi (hell-steamed cuisine)! Using searing hot steam, eggs, rice, corn and even pudding are cooked to perfection – a great way to replenish your energy after a long onsen soak.
Extra: Yukemuri Observation Deck
Whether you’ve finished your pilgrimage to the Beppu Hattou or just want a scenic memento to take home with you, make sure to take a bus or taxi to the Yukemuri Observation Deck just outside of Kannawa, preferably during dusk or dawn on a windless, clear day.
Once you manage the climb up the two-storey building, you’ll be rewarded with a sight that encapsulates what draws thousands to Beppu each year – dozens of steam columns rising towards the heavens from the town’s many onsen. If the sheer beauty from a dawn or dusk visit is still not enough, then wait for certain nights when the town will be lit up in colourful lights, giving these “Beppu Towers” an even more beautiful glow!
So, ready to soak yourself in Beppu’s steamy charms? Check out their official tourism page for more information. Or, if you’re looking for more sightseeing instead, check out our guide to Beppu’s Seven Hells!