While travelling in Tokyo, it’s all too easy to notice something about this metropolis – it can be loud.
Whether it’s chattering crowds, looping store jingles or the howling trains, Tokyo is a constant stream of music, noise and bustle that overwhelm even the most hardened KL-lite.
Perhaps because of this sensory overload, many Tokyo itineraries include day trips to nearby nature retreats such as Hakone or Nikko.
But often overlooked among these classics is – I would argue – one of the most scenic nature retreats and hikes around Tokyo – Mount Nokogiri.
And it just so happens that I’ve just come back from a hiking trip to Mount Nokogiri!
A Mountain Carved by Hand
Named after its sawtooth-like profile, Nokogiri-yama (鋸山) or Mount Nokogiri is located just across Tokyo Bay in Chiba Prefecture, at the western tip of the Boso Peninsula.
From the late 1860s to as late as the 1980s, countless stone slabs were carved out of mountaintop quarries by hand and later machine, leading to its distinctive smooth cliffs and sawtooth ridgeline.
This volcanic and fire-resistant Boshu Stone – Boshu being the classical name of southern Chiba – would be used not just in furnaces and braziers, but also as foundations and structures in places such as Yokohama, Odaiba and the Imperial Palace.
Today, Nokogiri has many hiking trails popular for their blend of manmade and natural attractions as well as a ropeway that allows for easy access to the peak.
Getting There
There are two main routes into Mount Nokogiri, by train or by ferry.
By train, take the Sazanami Line from Tokyo Station to Kimitsu Station before transferring to the Uchibo Line and riding all the way to Hama-Kanaya Station (2 hours in total). Then, take a 15-minute walk to the trailhead.
For the ferry, take the Yokosuka Line to Kurihama Station or the Keikyu Line to Keikyu-Kurihama. Next, board the local bus (number 久7 or久８) to the Tokyo-Wan Ferry Port Kurihama Passenger Terminal. Then, take a ferry to the Kanaya Port Passenger Terminal (40 mins). Finally, walk through Kanaya town to the trailhead (30 mins).
Although the ferry option sounds complicated and time-consuming, I highly recommend it if you’re not pressed for time! Not only do you get to travel in style, you also get to admire views of Tokyo Bay that are rarely seen among tourists. Here’s the Tokyo-Wan Ferry Daily Schedule.
If you’re not hiking, there’s also ropeway cable car (Google Maps) that brings you straight up to Nihonji Temple and the Jigoku Nozoki viewpoint. The cable car station is 15 min from Hama-Kanaya Station.
Journey to Nokogiri
My trip into Mount Nokogiri was on a clear, sunny winter day towards late December. After acclimatizing to the winter weather, I felt it was time to challenge Nokogiri. The weather forecast called for clear skies with some clouds in the afternoon, with temperatures around 10 degrees or lower – which thankfully turned out to be true.
Starting around 9, it was a two-hour journey train to Keikyu-Kurihama Station and then the ferry terminal. Luckily, I managed to catch the ferry barely 10 minutes before it embarked, avoiding a one-hour wait for the next ferry. In retrospect, setting off earlier around 7 would’ve been better, but that’s life!
As the ferry embarked, I stood at the aft and watched the chaotic white churn taper off into a sharp trail. Saying goodbye to the last few buoys and isles, the ferry sped up, whipping the deck with intense winds. Out in the open sea, a radiant sun looked out over an endless, shimmering sheet of blue.
Squinting my eyes against wild winds and the solar glare, I looked out into the unfathomable vastness of this small slice of the Pacific Ocean.
After getting my fill of the Pacific, I went down into the seating decks for a better view of the approach to Kanaya. Starting from a speck in the distance before transforming into an impressive façade, the port of Kanaya and Mount Nokogiri above extended their welcome.
Finding the Trail
Exiting the ferry terminal, you’ll have to cross a parking lot and then some neighbourhoods to reach the trail. The way is poorly marked from the ferry terminal, but follow the coastal road (splendid views by the way) and stop just before the river and follow it upstream.
Once you see the retro-looking Tatsuta Convenience Store (太田屋商店), cross the river and turn left at the bright red Sasou Butcher Shop(笹生精肉店). By now, you should already see green signs leading you towards the trail. If you see signs for Kou’s Coffee, then you’re on the right track.
Past the rural outskirts of Kanaya and through a train underpass later, you’ll arrive at the Mount Nokogiri trail, or rather – trails.
Mount Nokogiri Trailhead Location (Google Maps)
Choose Your Adventure
At the trailhead, you’ll have to make a choice between two trails – the Kanto-Fureai Trail (関東ふれあい道) and Shariki-Michi Trail (車力道).
Although both of them will get you to the famous cliffs, I suggest taking the Shariki-Michi trail because it passes by some extra quarry sites and photogenic forests while placing you closer to a gorgeous view at the Observation Point.
Of course, if you’re more interested in Jigoku Nozoki and the Nihonji Temple, then the Kanto-Fureai Trail is the right choice.
Mount Nokogiri and Kanaya Map (scroll down for PDF links): https://nokogiriyama.jp/nokogiriyama-map/
Hiking Tips
- Make sure to dress warmly during colder seasons. Windbreakers help a lot as well as sweat-wicking innerwear (Decathlon works better than Uniqlo for hiking imo).
- Bring some extra water. The dry winds and sweating can leave you dehydrated very quickly.
- Bring some snacks or even a bento meal along. Outside the ropeway and temple, there aren’t any stores on the mountain.
- Wear proper hiking shoes or at least a sturdy pair of sneakers to avoid slipping on some of the rough paths and steep sections.
For more winter tips – especially for Malaysians – check out our Japanese Winter Survival Guide – Malaysian-Style!
Pushing to the Top
I chose the Shariki-Michi Trail for the extra attractions and started climbing.
Between the quirky mix of light forests, secluded homes and a giant underpass, my first stop was the Golden Algae Caves (ひかり藻生息池). I did not realize it at the time, but apparently inside these caves were carpets of glowing algae.
Past the underpass, the next stop was a deforested clearing. Full of toppled trees, the area gave off an eerie yet peaceful vibe that was only enhanced by the first proper stone ruin on the trail.
At the start of the clearing, a series of stone stairs, platforms and an alcove marked the endpoint of a transport system that used ropes and pulleys to ferry stone slabs from the peak. Not even half a century later, two stumps of rotting wood in the alcove, a field of misshapen stones and the rapid advance of tree roots and foliage were all that remained.
But, before this pulley system, these slabs – some as heavy as 240kg – were hauled down by wheelbarrows pushed by teams of workers, teams that mostly included women! And so, the trail used and carved by these same cart workers was named after them – shariki (cart pusher).
Right before I entered a dimly lit forest, I even managed to spot a pair of deer! I almost missed them due to their muddy coat blending into the hill but there they were- munching on some grass while eyeing me warily whenever I made the smallest move or sound.
Leaving them alone, I entered the eerily dark forest. With the elevation sharply ascending, I took a quick breath next to some stone slabs. Abandoned just before the final stop, the slabs stood silently as a thick coat of moss slowly reclaimed them for Mother Nature.
A Quick Catnap
Ten minutes off to the side of the main Shariki-Michi trail is the odd-sounding Nekochoba (猫丁場) or Cat Quarry.
Occupying a small outcropping facing the hills, this former quarry has been spruced up with some benches and a cute heart-shaped art installation created by Yoshiro Benjamin-Iida, a Chiba architect famed for their use of natural materials (Yoshiro’s Website).
But why cats?
Look closer at the cut stone wall and its overhang and you’ll know exactly why – multiple chisel and cut marks that look very similar to claw marks. But more importantly, hiding discreetly in a corner – the tiny carving of a cat playing with a ball! Blending in with the stone itself, I only noticed it even existed while researching for this guide!
Reaching the Cliffs
Kiritoshi or “cut-paths” were walkways carved into the stone for the convenience of stonecutters
The first sign that you’ve made it to the “saw teeth” of Mount Nokogiri will be a stunning manmade crevice carved into the rock face. Round the bend and you’ll come face-to-face with the “jaws” of the mountain – the cliff quarries.
Standing in front of me were monumental faces of unnaturally smooth granite stretching down from lofty peaks, only interrupted by equally gigantic overhangs or caves. It’s almost tempting to spin a tale about how they were created by otherworldly means.
But no, they were all carved by industrious, clever and ordinary people like you or me, sometimes with nothing more than sweat and chisels.
Mining Matters
So how did all these smooth cliffs, overhangs and caves come about?
Mount Nokogiri is made up of discrete diagonal geological layers formed by millions of years of erosion. This meant that stonemasons had to cut both deep and wide to both find and mine the high quality Boshu Stone.
First, the stonemasons had to slice out rectangular slabs by cutting both horizontally and vertically from top to bottom. Over many years, this resulted in Mount Nokogiri’s smooth cliffs.
After slicing out one half of the mountain, they would then proceed to search for and target particular stone veins by cutting into the cliffs.
To prevent collapses, the stair-shaped “roofs” carved out from probing and mining were left alone. Meanwhile, the stonemasons kept mining precious veins both deeper and diagonally. Both of these methods eventually resulted in the famous overhangs and caves we see today.
Although most portions of the deeper Kannon and Fukinuke edifice caves are closed off for safety reasons, you can still catch a glimpse into their cavernous innards, sometimes filled with stones, flooded by rainwater or simply overgrown.
Also, you can still touch the smooth walls further out and feel the cool (cold!) rock and expert stonework with your own bare hands.
To the Heavens
Taking the path upwards, I headed towards the Tokyo Bay Observation Deck (東京湾を望む展望台). Despite the chilly winter air, there was still plenty of foliage around, even red autumn ones!
But my joy quickly turned to despair as I slowly inched up Nokogiri. Already barebones steps became unrecognizable blobs while increasingly sharp and terrifying ascents marked the way to the viewpoint.
By the time I made it, I was already sweating buckets, my hands half-numb from grabbing onto freezing metal railings.
But then, what I saw made it all worth it.
Exiting the forested path, I was greeted by a breathtaking vista that stretched from the wild hills and to the quaint towns of the Chiba coast before plunging all the way into the sunlit bosom of the Pacific. The positively radiant sea acted as a giant mirror, reflecting the blue sky back towards the heavens and its armada of scattered clouds.
In the distance, helpfully highlighted by an informative display, were the awfully small signs of human civilization. Kanaya had shrunk to the size of a playset, Kurihama was but a mere line in the horizon and one of the densest cities in the world – Tokyo – was barely a wisp in the wind.
The Last Quarry
Awed and humbled, I made my way towards the opposite end of Nokogiri. I considered trying for the actual summit further up, but limited winter daylight, fatigue and mixed reviews of the place discouraged me.
Passing by the cliff quarries again, I made a detour into the Stone Stage Quarry (岩舞台), a massive former worksite with multiple levels.
Originally operated by the family-owned company Yoshike Shiten, you can still see their name emblazoned across a tall granite face at the site. They extracted some of the last Boshu Stone from Nokogiri up until 1985, when falling demand and environmental concerns closed this chapter of Kanaya history.
Now, only eerie echoes of Kanaya’s stonecutters remain. Piles of wood and steel covered in disintegrating tarps, scattered stone slabs returning back into the earth and even a wholly rusted backhoe tractor – these artifacts mark the final vestiges of Kanaya’s Boshu heyday.
But, as if in consolation, Mother Nature has blessed it with some of Mount Nokogiri’s most charming views.
A Peek at Hell
Once you’re back on the main path, you’ll quickly see something curious in the distance. On a very of top of the cliffs, a rocky point juts out of the ridge like a thumb. Protected by railings, you might even see a tiny silhouette of a person up top.
That, of course, is arguably the selfie spot to visit on Mount Nokogiri – Jigoku Nozoki (地獄のぞき) or View into Hell!
I quickly picked up the pace, painfully aware of the approaching winter sunset at 4pm. Hauling myself up even more spectacularly steep ridges, I arrived at the North Entrance to Nihonji Temple and my ticket to hell.
Only to be turned away because I’d arrived just past closing time at 3pm. Remember folks – especially Malaysians – Japan closes down earlier in winter!
A Kanto Encounter
Thankfully, the way down the alternate Kanto Fureai Trail more than made up for my disappointment!
Compared to the relatively shaded and gradual climb of Shariki-Michi, Kanto-Fureai has you going through mostly open sections that seesaw up and down a series of ridges.
Your reward for all this UV is sweeping views of Kanaya and the surrounding hills framed by gnarled, wind-blasted trees.
While taking care not to fall over, don’t forget to look back occasionally! Once you’re some distance away, the sawtooth profile Mount Nokogiri looks absolutely surreal as it rises above the emerald hills behind you.
By the time I made it to the Kangetsuki-dai (観月台) or Moon-Viewing Platform, the setting sun had already burned away the emerald sheen of the hills, dyeing them into a warm ochre-orange palette.
Peering through the platform’s small opening, out of the dense foliage, I saw a spellbinding sight – one of glowing hills, white buildings, cerulean seas and a clear December sky. But peer a little closer and you’ll see the faint outlines of Japan’s most famous mound of rocks – Mount Fuji.
A Golden Goodbye
Finally, I arrived back at the trailhead. But there was no time to rest, as the next ferry was just 30 minutes away from leaving me in Kanaya after dark.
Semi-sprinting at this point, I raced through the dusk-lit town, occasionally stealing glances at the golden hills and the foreboding clouds that loomed over them.
Thankfully, I managed to board with 10 minutes to spare, which I gladly used to admire the setting sun dipping slowly into the ocean from the top deck.
While the ferry’s engines roared to life, the white clouds from before had begun to darken considerably, not just from the fading light. Reaching towards the light, the menacing clouds seemed to stir the seas and the very air itself.
Amidst worsening weather, I felt a sense of unease as the ferry exited the port. Midway through the return voyage, my fears were partly realized. Pitch black clouds, a steady drizzle of rain and rough seas were now a reality. Fellow passengers and I were whipped back and forth as the ferry tried its best to navigate the churning seas, with even some plastic chairs and tables joining in!
Thankfully, as night fell, we made it back to port in one piece. Taking the packed bus back to Kurihama, I ended my Mount Nokogiri adventure with a bowl of savory chashu ramen at a standing-only place called Ekimenya.
Conclusions
If you find yourself with a day to spare in Tokyo and yearn for the outdoors, I highly recommend taking a shot at Mount Nokogiri. Spooky ruins, great nature and so many routes to pick and choose – what’s not to love?
Still yearning for Japan? Then check out our guides to Beppu – a town full of hot spring heavens and even hot spring hells!
Want more underrated destinations? Then our list of Japan’s Seven Most Underrated Prefectures is for you!
Other Attractions
Nihonji Temple
More than just a Zen temple, Nihonji Temple (日本寺 ) (Google Maps) is a giant complex full of both religious and natural attractions that’s absolutely worth visiting.
The temple’s carving of Kannon – the Buddhist goddess of mercy – was only built in 1966, but its spiritual and awe-inspiring presence can’t be denied. Another famous site is the temple’s massive Stone Buddha, one of Japan’s largest. Between them both are the 1,500 Arhats – countless statues of enlightened practitioners of Buddhism.
As for views, the temple’s star attraction has to be the famous Jigoku no Nozoki, which offers grand views over the Chiba coastline and a great selfie spot.
Links and References
Travely Notes – Nokogiriyama: a Unique Hike Near Tokyo
Visit Chiba – Mt. Nokogiri: Hiking Trail Guide
Nokogiriyama Official Website (Japanese)
