When is the absolute worst time to visit Nikko?
Winter, at least if you follow what my host told me as I checked into a BNB with pipes so frozen that baths were a no-no.
But look past the irregular buses, closed stores and of course, bitter cold, and you’ll find that winter in Nikko is a magical escape full of snowy sights and serene temples that offer a respite from the overtourism of Japan’s Golden Route.
Nikko: A Quick Look
In ancient times, Nikko’s awe-inspiring volcanic peaks and serene lakes led the Shinto and Buddhist faithful to build shrines and temples.
Later, Ieyasu Tokugawa – warlord and unifier of Japan – along with his descendants would construct even grander and lavish shrines to their family’s memory.
Today, Nikko is popular as a mountain resort town famed for both nature and heritage. Its close proximity to Tokyo also makes it a popular day trip destination, with many tourists opting for a day tour of the UNESCO-recognized temples.
So why winter in Nikko? Well, being from tropical Malaysia, I was eager to visit a place that gets absolutely caked in snow to see (and touch) it with my own senses. Sure there were challenges like closed attractions, shorter operating hours plus an infrequent bus schedule, but I figured it would all work out.
While planning, I also spotted a giant lake and hiking trails to the west, both collectively called Oku-Nikko (Inner Nikko). Curious to experience snow hiking for myself, I decided to turn my original day trip into a two-day stay.
But even with an extra day, things were going to be a bit tight, especially as a solo traveller.
Getting to Nikko
Nikko is not hard at all to reach thanks to convenient rail options by Tobu Railway based in Asakusa Station.
The only headache is your departure time and what sort of seats you want.
You could depart at a reasonable 9am, but the 2-hour journey to Nikko means you’re effectively arriving at noon with half the day gone. If you can manage to reach Asakusa Station early, I highly recommend taking the 6:30am train to Nikko.
Tobu also offers a various seats and even coaches to fit your Nikko escapade. From budget but still comfy seats on their Revaty trains to full-blown luxury coaches and lounges on their Spacia X trains, the only limit is your budget.
How to Book
Although Tobu has an English booking page, I simply could not get the search feature to work. I had much more luck booking through their Japanese booking page (browser translation works).
Also, be aware that limited express trains in Japan (i.e. Nikko-bound express trains) require both a base fare ticket AND a limited express ticket for seat reservations.
Base fare tickets can be bought in stations via vending machines or by simply tapping through platform gates with a loaded SUICA card.
Meanwhile, limited tickets can be bought online, at vending machines or the Tobu Tourist Information Center at Asakusa Station. However, seats can fill up fast during peak seasons, so it’s best to book in advance.
Day 1
An Early Start
To give myself more time to explore Nikko, I opted for the earliest Tobu train, which was the Revaty Kegon departing at 6:30am from Asakusa Station.
I was worried about whether trains would run to that early from my hotel in Ueno, but thankfully Japan’s punctual trains got me there on time, with even enough time for a quick Lawson breakfast!
After settling down on my toasty seat, I was treated to a slideshow of Tokyo waking up right outside my window.
Although a gloomy curtain of clouds and an ominous Tokyo Sky Tree sent me off, the day’s first light torched the clouds, revealing a vibrant ocean blue by the time we reached suburban Tokyo.
Tip: For the best views on the Tobu-Nikko line, book a seat on left side of the train when heading to Nikko. You’ll get a great view of not only the Tokyo Skytree, but also of Mount Nantai as you approach Nikko. The golden hours at sunrise and sunset may also drastically change the view (and glare) you see.
Past countless hives of homes and office blocks, I noticed the space between homes growing ever larger along with the size of farm plots. An hour in, and Tokyo is already lone gone, replaced by the Japanese countryside and its brown winter coat.
Arriving at Nikko
After reaching Tobu-Nikko station at 8:30am, I quickly stuffed my heavier luggage into a locker (~300 yen/day) and boarded a bus towards my first destination.
But first, we had a hill to climb.
Breezing past the Nikko town area and UNESCO-lauded shrines (we’ll explore that later), the bus started climbing, before climbing and then climbing further up the Irohazaka Slope – a series of hairpin on ice-lined roads. The ride is pretty safe and comfy, but I can see crowded buses being rough here.
Note: Elevations here vary wildly, from just 400m above sea level in central Nikko to a staggering 1,278m at Lake Chuzenji. In winter, this means fiercer and colder winds around the lake. Winter layering is absolutely essential here.
Past the top, the narrow road widens, then opens up to Lake Chuzenji, a massive lake famed for gorgeous fall foliage and pleasure boat rides.
Of course, being winter, none of that was on offer. Instead, the dazzling blue lake was surrounded by a ring of mountain ranges sprinkled with liberal amounts of snow that also buried every inch that wasn’t a road or main thoroughfare.
After about 20 minutes, I finally arrived at my destination: the Sanbonmatsu-Chaya resthouse, or rather, Senjougahara.
Getting Around Nikko
If you’re staying overnight in Nikko and plan of taking the bus, I highly recommend looking into the Nikko travel passes. Most buses here don’t accept cashless payments and passes are much better than navigating the nightmare that is Japanese currency.
If you’re only here for the UNESCO temples, I recommend getting the simple World Heritage Sightseeing Pass (600 yen per day for adults). Or, if you’re a nature or onsen lover, you can get the comprehensive Yumoto Onsen Pass (3,500 yen for two days per adult) that includes both central and inner Nikko.
For more details, check out the Jorudan transit vendor or the app (iOS | Android).
Also, though most buses here can handle a suitcase or two, it’s better to leave behind bulkier luggage via lockers or use luggage forwarding services, particularly during the crowded peak seasons.
For schedules, check out the Tobu’s online bus schedule to get an idea of travel times and bus stops.
Senjougahara & Odashirogahara
Senjougahara and the smaller Odashirogahara are ancient protected marshlands that are part of the wider Nikko National Park.
I initially planned on just sightseeing around Senjougahara but after learning about this famous bone-white birch tree called Kirifujin or “The Lady”, I simply had to see it for myself.
At the Sanbonmatsu-Chaya resthouse, I wolfed down a pricey but delicious lunch set (1000 yen). Then, I rented a set of snowshoes and hiking poles for 1,000 yen. The Nikko-Yumoto Visitor Center website had mentioned that they would help in the recent bout of fresh snow, so I got a pair just in case.
But the thing is, snowshoes are huge! And pretty much terrible to walk in outside of fresh snow. So, I had to haul these bulky shoes 20 mins south to the trailhead near the Akanuma Nature Information Center.
Reaching the trailhead, I slapped on my snowshoes and started my hike at 11:30am.
Right off the gate, I was thrust into a world of white.
Here, life was nowhere to be found. Trees shorn of colour and life. Earth and rivers buried under meters of snow and ice.
But most unnerving of all – a sheer deafening silence that haunted every twig and leaf, bereft of any birdsong and insect cries. Coming from a country where every rainforest is a cacophony of ceaselessly chatty wildlife, this was quite eerie.
But even amidst this white desert, life and beauty were still to be found. Hardy evergreens and plants clung onto their leaves above tiny, deliberate pawprints that ran off into thickets of blackened trees – all contrasted poetically against the white veil enveloping the rivers, slopes, and fields.
In fact, lying underneath all that snow is one of Japan’s most famous marshlands! Located at 1,400m high, the Senjougahara marshlands are one of the highest in Japan’s main Honshu island. Teeming with hundreds of species, it is also recognized as a crucial wetland under the Ramsar Convention.
Steeling myself, I trudged west past Senjougahara and then into Odashirogahara. Besides the awkward snowshoes and the occasional postholing (accidentally stepping into deep snow), there was no issue for snow hiking beginner like me.
Even in midwinter, the trail was still well maintained with red trail markers everywhere and a walkable, compacted trail. I didn’t find the snowshoes that helpful on solid snow, so I took them off midway. However, the hiking poles and their snow buckets helped a lot with maintaining balance and avoiding postholing. I highly recommend getting a cheap pair somewhere.
Due to my inexperience, two hours passed before I reached Odashirogahara. I stepped into the lookout area, looked past the fence, and there it was – the shining white bark of Kirifujin. It cut a dignified figure among its peers, a bud springing out of snow.
It was just a shame that murky clouds marred an otherwise beautiful sight, but barely ten minutes after I left the area, the skies cleared. Remember, winter weather on the trails can be notoriously fickle so be prepared!
Senjougahara Snow Hiking Tips
- Midday temperatures in January can plummet to -10°C around midday, but some basic winter layering will be enough for most.
- If clothes aren’t enough, wrap some heat pads around a piece of cloth and stuff them inside your pockets for extra warmth!
- To avoid snow getting in and wetting everything, bring a gaiter for your shoes or boots and a waterproof hat or hoodie jacket for your head.
- Non-slip shoes and boots are highly recommended to avoid slips on the many patches of ice and sleet, preferably ones with a high collar to keep the snow out.
- Bring some slightly longer pants or socks for snow protection (yes, snow getting in feels HORRIBLE). Bring some spares too just in case too!
- The terribly dry winter air can leave your fingers bleeding in minutes, so make sure to glove up and moisten up! Smartphone-friendly gloves can help you take selfies without exposing your hands too!
Back in Odashirogahara, I originally planned on taking a circuit back up to the northern entrance of Senjougahara, But, I turned back because of fatigue and fading daylight.
And thank goodness I turned back, because at Sanbonmatsu-Chaya, I missed two buses by standing at the wrong side of the road! By the time I reached my B&B in Chuzenji, it was pretty much dark out.
On hindsight, I would recommend first time visitors go to Senjougahara instead, because you can actually traverse the marshlands on a raised walkway. And if you have some extra time, a staying at the nearby Yumoto Onsen or one of the many onsen hotels around doesn’t sound like a bad idea either!
Back down on earth, if you need a place to stay in Chuzenji, I can’t recommend B&B KegonFalls enough.
Not only is it literally next to the Chuzenji’s main bus stop and attractions, the host Mr. Makoto is one of the warmest and most hospitable people I have ever met.
Despite my modest one-night stay, he offered tips on local spots, a welcome snack of sweet potatoes and even regaled me with fascinating tales from his youth.
Frozen water pipes and a freezing room? No problem, Makoto quickly offered multiple hot water flasks, electric blankets and even portable room heaters!
If you’re interested, check out B&B KegonFalls’ separate room listings here for men and women.
Day 2
Kegon Falls & Lake Chuzenji
I woke up to a chilly morning and Makoto’s breakfast special, once again starring his favourite sweet potatoes.
After packing up, I walked across the street (yes, across) to Chuzenji’s second star attraction: Kegon Falls (just like the B&B!).
These mighty falls and their thrilling 100m plunge can be admired from two viewing platforms, a free one near the top that and a paid one below accessible by elevator (600 yen).
According to Mr. Makoto, during winter, you’ll see reduced or even minimal water flow. So he advised me to check the free platform first before paying for a ticket.
Thankfully, his prediction was proven wrong. While egged on by howling winds from Lake Chuzenji, the waters of Kegon Falls tumbled gracefully from the heavens above.
Satisfied, I chose not to visit the paid platform. Instead, headed to Chuzenji Temple. Named after the lake, Chuzenji Temple is a Zen Buddhist temple about a 20-minute walk from Kegon Falls.
On the way there, there’s stunning views of the both the Chuzenji town and lake.
Once you enter (ticket: 500 yen), you are treated to some serene temple grounds and a cluster of temple buildings and a pagoda, many of them linked to the legendary monk Shodo Shonin.
At ground level, the Kannon-do Hall houses a massive 6m-tall statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, carved out of a single, still rooted tree. At the second floor, past a set of stairs is the Godai-do Hall. Here, statues of the Five Wisdom Kings guard the hall, all while a striking watercolour dragon watches from the ceiling above.
Best of all, there’s also a verandah that grants you a bird’s eye view of West Chuzenji and Mount Nantai!
However, be aware that photography inside the halls is prohibited.
Nikko Town
Racing back to the bus stop, I went down back to Nikko to see what’s up with its famous UNESCO-recognized temples.
Yes, despite the outsized fame of Toshogu Temple, Nikko actually has three noteworthy temples:
Toshogu Temple: Built to honour Ieyasu Tokugawa, it is famed for its gleaming golden gate and as the final resting place of the warlord.
Futarasan Temple: One of the oldest temples in Japan, it was built in the 8th century to worship Mount Nantai by the monk Shodo Shonin, who would also build the famous Shinkyo Bridge.
Rinnoji Temple: The only Buddhist temple among the three, it houses three golden statues worshipped as manifestations of the three mountains of Nikko: Mt. Nantai, Mt. Nyoho and Mt. Taro.
I wanted to catch the afternoon train to out of Nikko, so I decided to just focus on the headliner Toshogu.
And boy was I impressed.
Toshogu Temple
As you approach Toshogu Temple, whether by the west (like I did) or the south (like most people), you’ll find a central path flanked by two rows of gargantuan trees. With sheer size and dense foliage, they blot out the harsh morning sun, zealously guard the divine and humble all who enter.
Braving the gaze of the gods, I entered this sacred space…but not before paying the 1,600 yen ticket.
Past the first set of stairs, the outer courtyard welcomes you. Gaze upwards, and the golden gate of Yomeimon grants you an audience.
Built from a foundation of ivory-like wood, this iconic gate of Nikko culminates in an overarching canopy that radiates a majestic, glorious glow. Decorating its already luxurious façade are hundreds of exquisitely detailed carvings of mythical animals, legendary sages and pivotal events from Chinese history and literature, a highly fashionable topic at the time.
But, look closely at one of its pillars, and you’ll notice something curious – its carved leaf patterns are reversed! This is because of a Japanese belief: once something is complete or perfect, it will inevitably decline. By leaving one “imperfect” pillar, it was hoped that the gate and the Tokugawa shogunate would last forever (Tokugawa rule would eventually end in 1868).
Speaking of carvings, Nikko has not one, but two famous carvings: the three wise monkeys and the sleeping cat. The monkeys – which symbolize a Buddhist lesson to see, speak and hear no evil – are in the outer courtyard just before the Yomeimon. Meanwhile, the sleeping cat is located just before the stairs to the inner shrine, seemingly ready to pounce at a moment’s notice.
And though it isn’t a carving, the Roaring Dragon at Honjido Hall – a painting created by the same artist who drew the dragon at Chuzenji – also deserves a mention. By clapping ceremonial sticks underneath the dragon’s mouth, a special echo akin to a dragon’s roar is created.
Doubling back to Yomeimon, I had barely pulled my eyes away from it when another majestic gate called Karamon (Chinese Gate) greeted me. Although smaller than the Yomeimon, it was no less beautiful thanks to the hundreds of divine dragons and Chinese sages dotting its visage – all made from priceless imported wood and maki-e lacquer.
However, the gate is barred to visitors, so you should enter through the right to reach the temple’s gohonsha or main hall. Here, visitors can offer prayers, admire the Chinese-style ceiling tiles and purchase charms and talismans. There’s even a room adorned with Southeast Asian timber that was exclusively reserved for the shogun’s personal use. Sadly, you’ll have to take my word for it as photography is prohibited inside.
However, Toshogu still holds one last surprise. Hidden up a long flight of stairs is the okumiya inner shrine. And by long, I mean really long! Make sure to pace yourself!
If you manage to reach the top, you’ll reach a quiet landing with the modest Inukimon prayer hall. Past another austere bronze gate, underneath a sturdy metal pagoda, is the tomb of Ieyasu Tokugawa.
Offering a quick prayer, I descended back down and left Toshogu. On the way out, I also caught a glimpse of the Futarasan and Rinnoji temples as well, though I had to skip them.
At the foothills of the southern entrance, I also managed to visit Shinkyo Bridge, a brilliant red bridge overlooking the Daiya River. You can pay 300 yen to cross the bridge and get some selfies or a closer look at the river, but I suggest skipping it.
As I boarded the bus that would whisk me out of Nikko, I bid farewell to the snowy delights and serene temples of this resort town.
Of course, not before trying some local snacks! Despite my limited time, I managed to snag a piece of yummy, piping-hot fried yuba (tofu skin) with some red bean filling. I also highly recommend the golden Nikko castella cakes from the souvenir stores near the Tobu Nikko Station. Nikko and the wider Tochigi prefecture are also famed for youkan jelly as well as fermented goods like pickled veggies and miso, something we’ll explore later.
Overall, if my Toshogu experience sounds kind of rushed, that’s because it was! Having to constantly look at the time really dampened my experience. I’d say giving yourself one whole day for Lake Chuzenji and Toshogu/Central Nikko each would be the way to go, ideally a 3D2N trip. A day trip or half day tour simply does not do Nikko justice.
So, would I recommend visiting Nikko? Absolutely! If you’re getting sick of Tokyo and need a day trip full of nature, culture and onsen, I can’t recommend Nikko enough! But, if you don’t have any interest in snow or winter or want more open attractions, maybe plan for a summer or autumn trip, even though those seasons come with peak season crowds.
For more escapes away from Tokyo, check out my day trip hike up to Mount Nokogiri right outside Tokyo. The onsen heavens and vivid hells of Beppu are also a great choice for those looking beyond Japan’s Golden Triangle.
Other Nikko Attractions
Yumoto Onsen: Located north of Senjougahara and Lake Chuzenji, this onsen town is famed for its hot spring source.
Akechidaira Ropeway: A ropeway that takes you up an observation platform for sky-high views. Sadly, it is currently closed for renovations until at least September 2027.
British Embassy Villa Memorial Park: A cozy villa with exhibitions on Oku-Nikko and British culture which also boasts great views of Lake Chuzenji. Closed in winter.
Various Waterfalls: Besides Kegon, the Yudaki, Ryuzu and Kirifuji Falls are beautiful natural attractions with great observation points.
Kanmangafuchi Abyss: A short forest trail leads to this little gorge overlooked by a row of picturesque, moss-covered jizo statues.
Useful Links
Map of Oku-Nikko’s Attractions & Hiking Trails (Japanese)
https://www.nikko-kankou.org/storage/pamphlet_pdf/20231017165414_nikko_okuNikkoGuide.pdf
The Glittering Beauty of the Yomeimon Gate at the Nikko Toshogu Shrine
https://www.gov-online.go.jp/eng/publicity/book/hlj/html/202210/202210_03_en.html
Nikko-Yumoto Visitor Center
http://www.nikkoyumoto-vc.com/nature/kuma_d.html
Visit Nikko
https://www.visitnikko.jp/en/
World Heritage Site Nikkō Tōshōgū
https://www.nippon.com/en/guide-to-japan/gu900202/
