Way down in southern Japan on the island of Kyushu, the town of Beppu is one of Japan’s Big 3 famous hot spring towns.
With over 10% of Japan’s hot springs calling it home, Beppu is the top dog when it comes to sheer hot spring water volume.
Historically, samurai would even visit the town for a soak to heal their wounds. Nowadays, it is home to dozens of places offering everything from traditional water soaks to even soaking in mud or sand!
But arguably the town’s claim to fame are its Seven Hells or Jigoku – seven boiling hot, colourful springs (and a geyser). Though too hot to bathe in, they’ve drawn many visitors who’re eager to get a glimpse into hell.
Descent into the Hells
Though seven locations sounds like a lot, most of the springs are clustered together, with two of a bit further away but still accessible by bus or a 2km walk.
The official guide recommends around two hours to see everything, so this makes for a great half-day tour. If you like soaking and taking your time though, the Hells can easily fill an entire day.
Make sure to bring some cash though, as entry is 2,200 yen per person for all seven hells, with discounts for the elderly, handicapped, children and large groups.
Umi-Jigoku (Sea Hell)
Your first step into hell will take you to the sea! Or something like it, at least.
Despite Sea Hell’s cyan blue looking like something straight out of a island paradise, the billowing clouds of steam and radiant volcanic heat will quickly remind you otherwise.
While you’re here, make sure to get a dip in the foot baths and take a tour of the gallery.
Don’t Miss:
- Café with pudding and desserts
- Hot-spring-cooked “onsen eggs”
- Local specialty “Enman-no-yu” bath salts
Oniishibozu-Jigoku (Bald Demon Hell)
Next up is the quirkily-named Bald Demon Hell, or Shaved Head Demon Hell to be more accurate.
Rather than blue waters though, this one is famous for its boiling mud, which bubbles up in mesmerizing circles that resemble the shaven head of a monk!
Don’t Miss:
- Onishi-no-Yu onsen
- Multiple baths (open-air, observation deck)
- Oni-no-Takaibiki or “Devil-Snoring” Geyser
Kamado-Jigoku (Stove Hell)
Said to have been named after a tradition of cooking rice with the hot spring as offerings for the Kamado Hachimangu Shrine, Kamado-Jigoku is actually a collection of six different hot springs, with varying shades of blue, brown and grey!
The site also offers a Gokuraku or Paradise experience, with foot baths, spring water drinking and even steam breathing!
Don’t Miss:
- Foot baths
- Spring water drinking
- Steam breathing
- Onsen century egg
Oniyama-Jigoku (Demon Mountain Hell)
Crocodiles in a Japanese hot spring? It’s likelier than you think! Oniyama Jigoku is a bizarre hot spring that channels its heat to rear an entire farm of crocodiles, with feedings every weekend.
Even more unusual is its exhibition hall, which is built in the style of the natives of Sarawak in Malaysia. Inside, you can see exhibits on crocodiles, with the star of the show being the stuffed body of a 71-year old crocodile named Ichiro!
Shiraike-Jigoku (White Pond Hell)
Shiraike Jigoku is a hot springs pond surrounded by a Japanese garden, perfect for a gentle stroll. Depending on when you show up, the pond can turn from dark white to even blue!
Take the time to appreciate the surrounding artifacts too, such as the ancient Mukainoharu Sekidou and Kuni Sekidou stone lanterns.
Don’t Miss:
- Mini-aquarium with piranhas
- Gallery with Chinese-style paintings and calligraphy by local artists
Chinoike-Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell)
The last two Hells are a bit further from the rest, requiring a 10-minute bus ride from the Kannawa Onsen Bus Stop.
But it’s absolutely worth it to see one of Beppu’s most stunning hells – the Blood Pond Hell!
First appearing in the Bungokuni Fudoki records almost 1,300 years ago, these ancient hot springs are filled with thick mud that glow a pastel orange-red thanks to clay and iron deposits located underneath.
After taking in the remarkable contrast between red pond and green forest, why not take a dip in the outdoor blood-red foot baths as well? If you dare, of course!
Don’t Miss:
- Blood Pond Pudding
- Local specialty Blood Pond Ointment
Tatsumaki-Jigoku (Geyser Hell)
Last but not least is not a pool or pond Hell, but instead a Geyser Hell.
True to its name, this Hell is a geyser that’s remarkably punctual for being a natural wonder, erupting every 30-40 minutes in a scalding spurt of 150°C hot water.
If it’s not due to erupt, you can pay a visit first to the previous Blood Pond Hell or even sit down for some sweets made from Tatsumaki Farm fruits as well as juice or gelato.
Other Stuff in Beppu
Of course, you can’t just visit Beppu’s alluring Hells and NOT take a dip in its many human-tolerable hot springs!
There’s the Takegawara Onsen with its super-hot baths and even sand bathing, all in a vintage Meiji-era bathhouse building or the Shibaseki Onsen with secluded atmosphere flanked by rolling hills of trees. Frankly, there’s enough bathing opportunities here to satisfy the most eager of onsen heads.
But, for a Beppu-only view, take a bus to the Yukemuri Observation Deck where you’ll see the full splendor of Beppu’s hot springs, with rising towers of steam marking the town’s steamy heritage. Try and get here around dusk, dawn or even night to get some truly mesmerizing views.
How to Get There
Though far from Tokyo, Beppu can be easily reached in just 2+ hours by flying to Oita Airport and then catching a bus to the town. By rail, it’s a 6-hour ride from Tokyo Station to Kokura Station before transferring to an express line to Beppu Station.
To get to the Hells themselves, you can take a bus from JR Beppu Station to Umijigoku-mae or the Kannawa bus stop.
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